TAPOBHUMI MAYAVATI- A  Travelogue by Bhaskar Banerjee

While Swami Vivekananda was travelling Switzerland along with his disciples, one day on seeing Alps mountains he told Mother Sevier, “In the latter part of my life, I shall give up all public work and pass my days in writing books and whistling merry tunes by this lake, free as a child !” Swami desired that if he would get a solitary place in a corner of Himalayas then his disciples could contemplate and practice of the Advaita Vedanta. The Sevier couple could not forget the desire of Swami.
Capt. J.H. Sevier and Mrs Charlot Elizabeth Sevier were issueless whom Vivekananda called as Mother and Father when he was in England. The couple loved Swamiji as his own son and took ‘mantra’ from Swamiji and became his disciples. They came in India and after great persuasion on 2nd March 1899, they could purchase a beautiful solitary place of Kumaon ranges of the Himalayas from General MacGregor, for a price of Rs.7000/- only. It was Gleengyle Tea Estate, a tea-garden containing more than a hundred acres of land. The local hill-people called the place as ‘Mai-Pet’ (Mother’s place). Vivekananda renamed the place as “Mayawati”. Mayavati Advaita Ashrama, which is a branch of the Ramakrishna Order, was founded by Capt. and Mrs J H Sevier and Swami Swarupananda, a direct disciple of Vivekananda, under the inspiration of Swamiji on 19th March 1899. The very day Swamiji could not be physically present at Mayawati but he sent a blessing-message for his ‘manas-Kanya’ Mayavati Ashrama –“In Dependence there is sorrow and in Independence, bliss. The contemplation and practice of Advaita Vedanta is the only way of achievement of perfection in human life. Eventually, it leads us to the path of salvation. For the realization of this great truth in personal life, we have established this Advaita Ashrama at the high peak of the Himalayas where the concept of Advaita Vedanta was discovered by the great sages of India”. Swamiji also sent his three disciples viz. Swami Birijananda, Swami Bimalananda and Swami Satchidananda to Mayavati to work with Swami Swarupananda and Saviers.

After a long wait, at last, myself along with three friends of mine got permission from the President of Advaita Ashrama, Mayavati for staying there from 27th March to 30th March (morning),1991.
We started from Howrah and on the 27th morning, we reached Lohaghat. Lohaghat – an unexplored and lesser-known Gem in Uttarakhand. Adorned with unblemished beauty and picturesque sites, the town Lohaghat is amongst the most tranquil, serene and restful place in Uttarakhand. It has a lure of its unique splendour. Lohaghat is covered with towering Oak, Pine and Deodar trees that delivers a stunning scenic look to the town making an ideal place for nature-tourism, the beauty of Himalayas.
The distance from Lohaghat to Mayavati is 9 km. We hired a car from Lohaghat and reached Mayavati Ashrama at about 9 a.m. This Ashrama is situated in a deep forest of deodars, pines, oaks, rhododendrons and other trees. Its altitude is about 6400 feet above sea level. Towards the north, it commands a magnificent view of the eternal snow-peaks of the Himalayas. The main Ashrama is surrounded by sky-catching hills and numerous tall trees. We felt as if we were in the Tapoban. It looks like, In deference to the wishes of Vivekananda, there is no shrine in this Ashrama, as such, no formal worship or prayer is held here. Five Sanyasis were in the Ashrama, they attend to everything. The behaviour of the Sanyasis and other ashramites were sober and nice. There was no human habitation nearby.
The English monthly, Prabuddha Bharata (Awakened India) founded by Swamiji himself in 1896, had its Editorial Office here. A separate building for Prabuddha Bharata was built here on 22nd May 1912. It is one of the oldest English Journals in India, devoted to spiritual, culture, religion and philosophy.

There was a Guest House in Mayavati Ashrama with limited accommodation for eight persons. In this season we were the first guests. The Guest House was about 10 minutes walk from the Ashrama. We had to go to the Ashrama for all our meals i.e. breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. After dinner, we along with all the Ashramites used to sitting at Golkamra (Library Room) and one of the sanyasis read 10 minutes from a religious book.

The facilities in this dense forest Guest House is superb. There is no fixed rate of charges, the Ashrama accepts as contribution whatever the Guests give. The guest seasons are from 15th March to June and from 15th September to mid-November. Staying is limited for 3/4 days. Un-escorted single women and strangers are not allowed to stay at Mayavati. Prior permission was required from the President of Advaita Ashrama, P.O. Mayavati, Via. Lohaghat, Dist. Pithoragarh, Pin: 262 524, Uttarakhand Or 5 Dehi Entally Road, Kolkata: 700 014 for staying at Mayavati.

Mrs. Sevier’s beautiful cottage (Mother’s Bungalow-6300’) and kitchen garden were just beside the Guest House.

On 27the afternoon, we went to “Swarupananda Point”, an altar where 1st President of Mayavati, Swami Swarupananda meditated.

On the 28th morning, we went to Dharmgarh Point (6650’), the highest mountain peak in Mayavati. Its altitude is about 1500 feet above Mayavati Ashrama. Swami Vivekananda was pleased to come here and meditated. The scenic beauty on the way to Dharmgarh is inexplicable. We had an opportunity to see the following peaks distinctly from Dharmgarh :
1.Chaukhamba Badrinath 2. Nilkanth 3. Kamet 4. Gauri Parvat 5. Nundghunti 6. Trisul 7. Nanda Devi 8. Nandkot 9. Nauzphu and 10. Punchachulli.

On 29th, we went to see the Mayavati Charitable Hospital (6300’). At the wish of Swamiji, this 25 bedded Hospital was started in 1903. Under the leadership of Swami Paramananda, its new building was built in the year 1912. It stands within the precincts of the Ashrama and was under the charge of a monastic Doctor. A resident Doctor (MS) treated the patients who came here daily across hills, sometimes trudging a distance of 100 km, even from Nepal also. All treatment was completely free of charge. Hospital also provided food, medicines and clothing to indoor patients. This Hospital was a great centre of sacrifice and service to the poor people of this area and was beautifully maintained, so much so that it looked like a temple of human service.
A Library and a Museum were found inside the Ashrama. The library kept a good collection of valuable religious as well as other subject books, those which are tempting to pilgrims and tourists alike.

There was a Gosala (Cow House) consisting of 10/12 healthy jersey cows. Milk of those cows was used to cater to Ashramites and guests.

We had visited a place called Lake Garden (6500)’. When Swamiji visited Mayavati, he did rowing in this Lake. We found the Lake was totally filled-up with rubbish.

Capt. Sevier was the Manager of Mayavati Ashrama and died here on 28th October 1900 at 2.30 p.m. As per the wish of Capt. Sevier, his mortal body was cremated, following Hindu rituals and chanted Vedic hymns. This was performed by the side of a river named Sarada (6000’), flowing beneath the Ashrama.

On hearing the death news of Capt. Sevier, Vivekananda first time visited his ‘Manas Kanya’ Mayavati on 3rd January 1901. Swamiji came from Almora – the journey was not a cake-walk because almost all the paths were covered with knee-deep snow. He sometimes came by horse-back and sometimes by walk, trudging snow and virulent weather. And, at last Swamiji stepped on his feet at Mayavati and consoled Mother Sevier and told that Capt. Sevier’s death was a martyr’s death. Swamiji stayed here for a fortnight only.

After the demise of Capt Sevier, Mother Sevier was the sole of Advaita Ashrama. As desired by Swamiji for publicity of Advaita Vedanta all over the world, Mother without hesitation had spent a huge sum for this noble cause. By heart and soul, she dedicated herself for this Ashrama and lived like a mendicant. Her kindness and generosity knew no bounds. Apart from the Ashramites, her kindness had spread to the surrounding villages also. Off and on she visited far away villages, accompanied by Swami Swarupananda, and treated villagers with medicines and gave them money also. Very secretly Mother performed the above work. Swamiji once told that though Mother Sevier was his disciple she had motherly affection, like his own mother, in respect of Swamiji. As per Swamiji’s observation, the Sevier couple was the only Britisher who never hated Indian people. Every Ashramite i.e. sanyasi, Brahmachari and surrounding villagers had high respect to the Mother.
Mother Sevier stayed here for 18 years. Due to ill-health she left Mayavati in the month of March 1926 and went to England forever. She died in London on 20th October 1930 at 01.45 p.m. at the age of 83 years.

Some other direct disciples of Sri Ramakrishna, Sri Ma, and Swamiji also visited and stayed here. Famous Japanese Painter Okakura visited this place and mesmerized completely to see its majestic scenic beauty and spiritual ambience. Famous Scientist, Acharya Jagadish Chandra Bose, Lady Abala Bose and Sister Nibedita visited Mayavati time and again. Deshbandhu Chittaranjan Das, Sarala Debi Chowdhurani, famous Artists Nandalal Bosu, Binayak Masoji, Santideb Ghose, Aurobindo Basu, Madhab Sadashiv Golwalkar, Famous Hunter Jim Corbet, Vivekananda Biographer Sankari Prasad Bosu, Ms. Mery Louis Barke, Swamiji’s disciples Ms Josephine Macloud, Mrs. Oli Bul, Ms. C Greenstidel, Mrs. Henesi, Sister Christine also visited Mayavati.
Mayavati is a sacred place, a centre of pilgrimage to the devotees of Sri Ramakrishna and Vivekananda. Full-moon lit beauty of this place is inexpressible. Mayavati Ashrama looked alike rishis (sages), as narrated in Upanishadas, living in hermitages.
The surroundings of Mayavati are just majestic and entirely divine. Every tree and every corner of this area makes us feel the presence of God here. The panoramic view of the long chain of snow –peaks look like the great manifestation of Lord Shiva. One feels here absolute divinity and spirituality and forgets all worldly worries and tensions.

On the 30th morning, while we were returning from Mayavati we felt as if we were missing a very near relative of ours.

The route to Mayavati :

There is a direct night bus service from Delhi going up to Pithoragarh. It reaches Lohaghat on the following forenoon and from Lohaghat bus stand one has to alight for coming to Mayavati.
From Lucknow, one has to travel by train to Tanakpur either Nainital Express or Mathura Express. There is a direct compartment in the 2nd Class in Nainital Express. from Lucknow to Tanakpur but passengers travelling in Mathura Express have to change at Pilbhit in the early hours of the morning to board the local train going to Tanakpur which reaches Tanakpur around 08 a.m. Then, the journey by bus from Tanakpur to Lohaghat (88 km.), reaching there in the afternoon. The last lap of the journey from Lohaghat to Mayavati is to be covered on foot/car.
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